Thursday, 19 March 2020

Every Church has a story - St Margaret`s, Ipswich

Just before the `lock down` due to the Coronavirus, I managed an hour in this magnificent church, just off Christchurch Mansion and park. Although the interior has been much modified by our predecessors, along with most in England I am afraid, there are still many feature worth recording and admiring. Firstly, the magnificent exterior.

The exterior of St Margaret on the Plain in Ipswich


The church sits on St Margaret's Plain, tucked into a corner of Christchurch Park. The park was the site of the Augustinian Priory, dedicated to Holy Trinity but frequently referred to in old documents as Christchurch. 

Estate Agents in St Margaret`s Plain which was part of old Monastery

One of the buildings opposite the church, now an estate agent, is part of the former monastery range, and its beams are full of delightful carvings.

Interior of St Margarets on the Plain, Ipswich

View from the nave toward the chancel and sanctuary.

St Margaret nave roof possible one of the best in all Suffolk

St Margaret has the best nave roof in Ipswich, possible one of the best in all Suffolk. It is a fine double-hammer beam affair, resplendent with (albeit restored) original colouring. The angels were dispatched by our friend Dowsing, and replaced, in 1700, by the heraldic shields.


The Royal Arms of Charles II hang at the west end

Font in St Margaret on the Plain


In front of the tower arch, there is the fine font. The angels hold scrolls, and the writing on the scrolls has been defaced - except on one. This carries the words sal et saliva ('salt and saliva'). This refers to two of the elements of sacramental Baptism. Why did it survive? Perhaps the font had been moved against a pillar during the 16th century post-Reformation reordering, and so this panel was hidden from those who destroyed the others. Perhaps the others carried words illustrative of the other six sacraments, with something else for the eighth scroll. The most badly vandalised angel has been recut into a simple cross, presumably in the 19th century, but it is rather odd - but a memento of turbulent times past in our religious history.


A commemorative window.

Gorgeous stained glass in St Margaret`s on the Plain, Ipswich

The lovely east window

In memory of a great Ipswich family, The Fonnereau wall tablet

The Fonnereau wall tablet

The story of two of the great Ipswich families (Cobbold and Fonnereau) is certainly fascinating and worth a read. Their respective links to the Cobbold Brewery, Holywells Park and Christchurch Park and Mansion, give some ideas of the many ways both families moulded and helped the town for the better over many years. The plaque above is a memorial to one of the Fonnereau who Ministered here at St Margaret`s.




Sunday, 8 March 2020

Felixstowe Ferry Scavenger Hunt

Suffolk Professional Photographer, Gill Moon, holds monthly walks around areas of her `home turf` in Suffolk. These are free! and are really worth participating in. This one was entitled ` Felixstowe Ferry Scavenger Hunt` and there were about 14 of us taking part. Gill gives us ideas and concepts to photograph while sauntering around a particular area, with lots of helpful advice `to boot`.
Gill has a web site well worth looking at, and where you will find details of all her courses, paid and unpaid, as well as examples of her work..



Having never visited this area of Felixstowe before, we were fascinated by some of the boats being lived in on the estuary. Such as below.



Eccentric might be the word! This was called POTAMUS - look! two hippo.


Between 1805 and 1812 eight Martello Towers were built on the Felixstowe Peninsula as a defence against a possible invasion by Napoleon's forces. These squat, ovoid-shaped brick-built towers were immensely strong and were inspired by an ancient watch tower at Mortella Point in Corsica. Part of a larger network along the east and south coast of England, the towers were named with letters of the alphabet. The Martello Tower 'Q' along South Hill is now converted to a home.


Although the weather was `threatening`, it stayed dry for the 2 hours we were here. I liked the clouds above these cottages. Not in the challenge but appealed to me anyway.


So, the first image is of the day. It is of the days Scavenger Hunt list - but on a rather crumpled piece of paper! As you can see there are 12 in all, and starting from the top of the list we have .....



... BLUE. I think the top one is my favourite of the two.



WATER was the next one, and here I took 2 images. There was no lack of the stuff about here!



LOOKING IN, and the first one was about looking in a window, and the other into a reflection of myself `into` a tunnel. I liked this second one which was in the side of the Martello Tower.


My choice here for UNEXPECTED, was of a rabbit on top of a boat shed. Not real of course!


LINES AND CURVES IN THE SAME IMAGE. I think this one works?


PATTERNS on the hull of a boat.


MULTIPLE USE OF TEXTURES


RELATING TO FISHING - tricky one this in a boatyard full of fishermen and tackle!



WOODEN. Here there were plenty of wooden objects - from wooden posts to junk piles of wood.


DETAIL in the copy permits stickers on the hull of this boat.


OLD - say no more! A really enjoyable time, with a coffee and chat afterward.



Friday, 28 February 2020

The Round Church of Little Maplestead

One of the gems of northern Essex is to be found along a small country lane in Little Maplestead, a few miles northwest of Halstead. Locally known as The Round Church, it sits nestled in a beautiful spot among several ancient yew trees on the crest of a small hill. Approaching by foot across the fields or by road from Halstead it can be seen from quite far off and merits a visit, as it is a very pretty little church and one of the most historically important buildings in the area.


This is the church nearest to my childhood home, although my parents were of the Congregational and Strict Baptist inclination, I attended for weddings and funerals. Both my parents are buried here and family members have been married here. It holds a warm spot in my heart, I must confess!
Officially known as The Church of St. John the Baptist, the Round Church is one of only four round churches still in use in England. Its history dates back to the Middle Ages although the early records are unreliable. It is generally believed that there was a church near to the site of the current church in late Saxon times, as a priest is mentioned in the Domesday Book, but there is no documentary or archaeological evidence to support this.

For a full details of the Church, I have copied from an article by the Chairman of the Friends of the Round Church
"One of the gems of northern Essex is to be found along a small country lane in Little Maplestead, a few miles northwest of Halstead. Locally known as The Round Church, it sits nestled in a beautiful spot among several ancient yew trees on the crest of a small hill. Approaching by foot across the fields or by road from Halstead it can be seen from quite far off and merits a visit, as it is a very pretty little church and one of the most historically important buildings in the area

Officially known as The Church of St. John the Baptist, the Round Church is one of only four round churches still in use in England. Its history dates back to the Middle Ages although the early records are unreliable. It is generally believed that there was a church near to the site of the current church in late Saxon times, as a priest is mentioned in the Domesday Book, but there is no documentary or archaeological evidence to support this.

During the Crusades, the manor and church of Little Maplestead were given to the Order of the Knights of St John of Jerusalem, also known as the Knights Hospitaller. After the grant of the land in 1185 by Juliana Fitz-Audelin, the Hospital was founded by the Knights who then built a church for their own use in around 1186, although history does not relate whether or not that church was circular. At around the same time, domestic buildings would have been erected in the surrounding area for the use of the Knights Hospitaller community, including a chapter-house, refectory and dormitories. The preceptory was close by on the site of what is now Maplestead Hall, which can be seen on the other side of the road from the present church. Unfortunately, no evidence of any of these buildings remains, but the Round Church on the site is still associated with the Order of the Knights of St John of Jerusalem today. Every year members of the Order can be seen in procession, clad in traditional full robes, on the first Sunday in June as they celebrate their annual “Service of Thanksgiving and Re-dedication” at the Round Church.

The Order was originally founded in 1092 in Jerusalem with the building of a hospice to accommodate pilgrims visiting holy places. It was first introduced in England in around 1144 to give medical care to sick and injured crusading knights. It eventually became today’s St John Ambulance service which is the UK’s leading first aid provider and training organisation. The Houses of the Knights Hospitaller were dissolved by Henry VIII in 1540, as part of the Dissolution of the Monasteries and most of the knights retired to Malta, becoming known as the Knights of Malta. The Maltese cross of the Knights Hospitaller still forms part of the service’s livery and also features on the traditional robes of the Order. Round churches were built by both the Knights Hospitaller and the Knights Templar. The round design was based on the fourth century rotunda of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem, which was built by the Emperor Constantine. Constantine’s church was built on what is regarded as the site of Jesus’s tomb and the round shape of the church is thought to celebrate the resurrection. The other round churches still in use are the Temple Church in London, belonging to the Knights Templar, and the Churches of the Holy Sepulchre in Cambridge and in Northampton, but neither of these are connected to the Knights Templar or Hospitaller.

The present church was probably built around 1335 on the site of the church of the Knights Hospitaller and is the latest of the four round churches still in use in England. It is therefore of great importance historically. There is debate about why the circular plan of the church would have been adopted as late as the 14th century, as this style had gone “out of fashion” by the end of the 12th century. One theory is that the circular aisle and walls of the chancel probably date from the late 12th century and the hexagonal arcade within the round dates from a later period. However, there is no sign of work earlier than the 14th century so it may be that the circular form was simply influenced by an earlier round church on the site. The church was dramatically restored between 18511857 when most of the old details were renewed or replaced. It is possible to read what was done in the old minute book of the Restoration Committee which is still in existence. The external walls were completely refaced and the windows and buttresses were renewed. A new roof was added to the chancel and circular aisle, the wooden belfry was rebuilt and the old western porch was replaced with a smaller one. The interior stonework was scraped and much new stone added.

The present font was discovered during the restoration work. It is the most ancient feature in the church and probably dates from 1080. The bowl was originally square but the corners were later cut off, in all likelihood during the 16th century. The font was probably intended for total immersion baptism as was the custom in early Norman times. The western face of the font bears a carving of St Andrew’s cross. As St Andrew was possibly the first bishop of Byzantium, this may account for the presence of his symbol. Apart from the font there are no other treasures of any great significance inside the church, but it is worth a visit for its unique shape and historical importance if you happen to be in the local area. The church today probably looks very much the way it did after the Victorian restoration over 150 years ago. It is made of flint with a tiled roof and a low, six-sided wooden belfry and, as you will see if you visit, it has a very unusual design. It has a six-sided nave surrounded by a circular aisle which forms the round part of the church. Running east from the nave there is an aisle-less chancel terminating in a semi-circular eastern apse which is apparently the only 14th century example of this type which now exists in England. There is a porch on the western end of the nave over an original 14th century doorway which opens into the round. The roof over the nave and circular aisle is of a conical shape and is surmounted by the sexagonal belfry. On top of the belfry sits an iron weather vane with a gilded finial, which is a copy of a similar one which existed in 1836.

Although the Round Church has been rebuilt and restored many times in its long history it is in need of significant restoration once again. At some time in the middle of the twentieth century, the brick and flint exterior was repointed using cement rather than lime mortar, which has proved to be rather disastrous for the church. The fabric of the church cannot breathe and so the interior of the church has become very damp. This is causing the plasterwork inside to crumble and fall off and is now in urgent need of repair. The Friends of the Round Church was set up in 2009 as a charity to raise funds to carry out the remedial works required. So far, the gutters have been replaced and French drains have been installed to keep water away from the exterior walls. Fundraising continues so that the internal plaster can be replaced and, eventually, the cement pointing replaced with lime mortar. Because the church is so tiny, it has a very small congregation and most of the money required will have to come from outside Little Maplestead, either from grants or donors interested in protecting this local treasure.

Despite the dilapidations the church is still active locally. Services are held on the first Sunday of every month and several weddings take place every year as it is such a charming location in which to get married."

Jane Hartley-Allen
Chairman of the Friends of the Round Church


During the Crusades, the manor and church of Little Maplestead were given to the Order of the Knights of St John of Jerusalem, also known as the Knights Hospitaller. After the grant of the land in 1185 by Juliana Fitz-Audelin, the Hospital was founded by the Knights who then built a church for their own use in around 1186, although history does not relate whether or not that church was circular. At around the same time, domestic buildings would have been erected in the surrounding area for the use of the Knights Hospitaller community, including a chapter-house, refectory and dormitories. The preceptory was close by on the site of what is now Maplestead Hall, which can be seen on the other side of the road from the present church. SEE BELOW. 


Maplestead Hall 

Unfortunately, no evidence of any of these buildings remains, but the Round Church on the site is still associated with the Order of the Knights of St John of Jerusalem today. A preceptory is a monastery of the military orders of Knights Templars and Knights Hospitallers (also known as the Knights of St John of Jerusalem). Preceptories were founded to raise revenues to fund the 12th and 13th century crusades to Jerusalem. 


Entrance on the west end of the church


The present church was probably built around 1335 on the site of the church of the Knights Hospitaller and is the latest of the four round churches still in use in England. It is therefore of great importance historically. There is debate about why the circular plan of the church would have been adopted as late as the 14th century, as this style had gone “out of fashion” by the end of the 12th century. One theory is that the circular aisle and walls of the chancel probably date from the late 12th century and the hexagonal arcade within the round dates from a later period. However, there is no sign of work earlier than the 14th century so it may be that the circular form was simply influenced by an earlier round church on the site. The church was dramatically restored between 1851 and 1857 when most of the old details were renewed or replaced. 


Priest`s door into the Chancel, on the south side of the church 


Looking toward the Altar and Chancel. 


From the Chancel looking toward the west end. 


The rounded East end of the church 


Pro Fide, Pro Utilitate Hominum. For Faith, For Service to Humanity. 

The Sovereign Order of St. John of Jerusalem, Knights Hospitaller (Sovereign Order) is a Christian, chivalric, ecumenical and international community of members, who continue more than 900 years’ of tradition helping the sick and the poor of all nationalities, races and creeds. Their motto and symbol on all the furnishing in the church 
The Maltese cross is a cross symbol, consisting of four "V" or arrowhead shaped concave quadrilaterals converging at a central vertex at right angles, two tips pointing outward symmetrically. 
It is a heraldic cross variant which developed from earlier forms of eight-pointed crosses in the 16th century. Although chiefly associated with the Knights Hospitaller (Order of St. John, now the Sovereign Military Order of Malta), and by extension with the island of Malta, it has come to be used by a wide array of entities since the early modern period. 


The present font was discovered during restoration work. It is the most ancient feature in the church and probably dates from 1080. The bowl was originally square but the corners were later cut off, in all likelihood during the 16th century. Apart from the font there are no other treasures of any great significance inside the church, but it is worth a visit for its unique shape and historical importance if you happen to be in the local area. 


Wednesday, 19 February 2020

More images of Ipswich Waterfront.

Question marks are being asked (according to the local press) about the future of the two largest buildings at that end of Ipswich Waterfront historic Wet Dock - The Mill tower and the former Paul's Silo. It was announced this week that the former Burton's building on the Waterfront is to be converted into a new arts hub, bringing a huge boost for that part of the town.


However, the Mill tower is still incomplete. There are no flats completed in the tallest building in Ipswich and it is still in the hands of administrators as legal talks about who is responsible for the cladding that became dislodged in the St Jude's Storm in 2013. Talk about Red Tape and Bureaucracy!!
The former Paul's Silo (on the left) is now owned by the borough and I don`t know the plans for it at the moment. One hopes that this remaining area of the Waterfront can soon be transformed in keeping with the rest of this lovely area.


At the University end of the Waterfront, this is the frontage of one of the many accomodation blocks.


Old steps on the outside of the former Burtons building at the start of the Waterfront


The Old Custom House, is without question, the finest building on Ipswich Waterfront. It’s impressive frontage combines two stairways with stone balustrades befitting the classic style of the building, and it complimented by four Tuscan columns and pediment under the portico at the top of the stairs. Ornately decorated with carvings of the Borough Arms, and whilst the actual date is not known, the arms are estimated to date back to around 1200, when the first Charter was granted to the Borough by King John.The Custom House dates back to 1845, and was designed by John Medland Clark, a local architect who won a competition for the design of the building.


Isaacs on the Quay sits along one of the most important historical features of Ipswich’s past – the now regenerated waterfront, which has long been a trading hub for the town. The complex of buildings that make up Isaacs on the Quay has a long history dating back to medieval times.
While the buildings carry the name of Isaac Lord – a local businessman who bought the property from the Cobbold brewing family in 1900 – Isaacs on the Quay is set in a collection of Grade I and Grade II* listed buildings – including medieval and Tudor – some of the oldest sections were constructed between 1430 and 1550. Home, and the way of life of a wool merchant when Ipswich was one of the most prosperous and important towns in England, the buildings retain many of their original features, including the carefully restored corn-dressing machine – a rare survival of an 18 century hand-malting concern – in the Machine Room. The Merchant House was built in 1636 and has since been lovingly restored into a fully functional guest house.
Isaac Lord purchased the Isaacs on the Quay buildings around 1900 and they continued to be used for trading coal and corn until the 1980s. John Cobbold, known locally due to the Tolly Cobbold brewery, also once lived in the Isaac Lord house. The Isaacs on the Quay complex received a direct hit in Second World War. The Foreman’s Cottage, which was attached to the Crossways, was destroyed, as was part of the Saleroom roof. Thankfully, though, nothing else was damaged.


View across the Neptune Quay from the far end.


Ancient and modern. St Mary at the Quay sits among the modern structure. This medieval church lies next to Ipswich's regenerated quayside. It was built, or perhaps rebuilt, between 1450 and 1550. Elegant Perpendicular windows bathe the interior - and its handsome arcades - with light. The wonderful Medieval double hammerbeam roof in the nave (one of the earliest of its type) has carved figures of apostles, other worthies and less formal images in the spandrels. There is also a handsome octagonal fifteenth-century font.

A previous visits to the waterfront can be seen HERE


Featured post for the week

Bridges and butterflies in Pipers Vale, Ipswich

Ipswich is blessed with a number of park areas, including the great Christchurch Park. The Park we visited today is called Piper`s Vale, and...