Swallowtails at Strumpshaw Fen

Swallowtail butterflies are large, colourful butterflies that form the family Papilionidae. Swallowtails differ from all other butterflies in a number of anatomical traits. Most notably, their caterpillars possess a unique organ behind their heads, called the osmeterium. Normally hidden, this forked structure can be everted when the caterpillar is threatened, and emits smelly secretions containing terpenes. The adults are often tailed like the forked tail of some swallows, giving the insect its name.

During the 20th century, especially after the Second World War, fen land management ceased and much of this butterfly’s habitat was lost. Today active management of the fen land, where reed and sedge are cut to allow other plants to grow, plays an important part in the survival of the swallowtail in Norfolk. With this continued fen land management, the future for the swallowtail looks brighter. 

On our visit to Strumpshaw Fen, we expected to have to search around for a while before seeing the Swallowtail. However, we walked into the site and found a crowd of people photographing them just by the visitor center! 

So we need not have gone any further. Having travelled to Norfolk though, we spent a few pleasant hours exploring this lovely site. Well worth a visit.

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Mullon & Duddon Sands

So, last day, and where shall we go which is not too far away? So the choice was to the nearest coastal area, a few miles south and the town of Mullon, on the edge of the Duddon sands. The town looked a bit of a dump being dull and unkempt, having nothing particular to catch the eye. Parking? Prizes are available for finding anything!! First though, we carried on through the town to an RSPB site called Hodbarrow.

In the past this area, the Hodbarrow mine at Millom was one of the most successful iron ore mines in Cumberland (now Cumbria) not only for the amount of ore that was excavated but also for the quality of the Haematite.

Mining had been tried at Millom before 1855 but with little success. Two men Nathaniel Caine and John Barratt formed the Hodbarrow Mining Company in around 1855. One of the biggest problems at Hodbarrow was due to water and when the old workings collapsed the low lying areas flooded leaving the company with very little choice but to press on and in 1868 extra boreholes were sank and a huge body of Haematite was discovered. 

In 1869 work began on shaft No.1, No.2 and No.3 but shaft No.2 had to be abandoned in 1870 due to flooding, so work had to be started on a new shaft No4 which was operational around 1874. The problems with sand & water became worse, and in 1880 a large embankment was built but this was not as successful as first hoped. The Haematite, which came out of Hodbarrow, was some of the best in the area and was very highly valued. A second sea defence was built in the early 1900s to protect the mines and workings from the sea. This proved very successful and is still in good shape today. 

The Hodbarrow mine ceased production in 1967 after 112 years. In 1968 the iron works closed it doors for the last time.

The remains of Haverigg Mill, Hodbarrow 

The reserve continues to be protected from the sea by a seawall completed in 1905. Most of the area of the reserve is taken up by Hodbarrow Lagoon, a flooded part of the former mine, which is described as a "coastal lagoon", the largest coastal lagoon in Cumbria. 

Great looking site but, like all sites, would need a few visits to appreciate what was visible and when. Still, a lovely morning walk and Rosey had some great images of a warbler. 

Then, back to town for lunch but no joy parking so back to the cottage to finish off the odds and bits left in the fridge. 

On the way back we encountered our first rain of the week. Pretty good for the lake District I would say. 

Then some packing ready for the off early tomorrow.

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Ulpha Slate mines

We knew there were some old slate mine workings near our cottage, so on thursday we went for a walk in the woods near our cottage to explore these disused slate mines. I believe this one was called Common Wood Slate Mine, Ulpha.There is a group of these old quarries north of Ulpha. They may have been worked from the 17th century until about 1925.

The road up to the quarries is built of slabs of slate on edge set into clay. As you climb the road(!!) you can see there was a stream running down it - probable in the wet weather.

The path/road was lined by carpets of Wild garlic and on the descent, by bluebells as well.

At the top of the track, the first thing you see is the ruins of the manager's house where William Casson moved in after his marriage in 1896. It may have been an early barn conversion. William Casson managed the quarries for the Ulpha Slate Company and the Ulpha Green Slate Company and finally on his own behalf as a slate dealer after the quarries were worked out.

It is a strange sensation standing on the top of the abandoned slag heaps amongst the wood which have grown up since the mines were abandoned. It was well worth the walk amongst the ruins in the beautiful woods, which are now an area of special scientific interest.

View of surrounding countryside from the top

Note the old gate post with holes drilled into the block.

There are some entrances to the old quarry for underground workings, one called Chaddock's level, a tunnel with two blind branches. It is dry, whereas others we looked in were very wet and muddy!. 

A walk back to the cottage for a coffee, cake and dinner (and rest) before taking a short drive for some photos along the River Duddon through the Duddon Valley, with Stickle Pike as a backdrop.

The view toward Stickle Pike from near our cottage

The river Duddon near to Ulpha Bridge and the bridge itself.

Some other views from nearby on the banks of the river Duddon.

Farm building and tree. Would have looked better in the evening light!

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Tarn Howe and Langdale

Wednesdays agenda was some walks around the area called Langdale which is just above Coniston and about 3 miles west of Ambleside.

On the way, and just past Coniston, we stopped at a NT car park for a short walk up to Tarn Hows Cottages. The views well worth the steep ascent although we only went to the cottages and not to the tarn at the top.

The pathway up. 

More views across the valley. 

So, after finding our parking spot at Skelwith Bridge, we had a coffee and a huge slice of battenberg cake before heading out on the walk beside the river Brathay toward Skelwith Force 

We reached Skelwith Force, a waterfall which normally has a large volume of water passing through, if not a very high drop. However, in this dry spell, it was not as spectacular as normal, but worth seeing and photographing. 

Could have mistaken this deformed tree for a dog? Well I think so. 

Just loved the colours of this plant growing by the pathway. 

Am I supposed to squeeze through this? 

Rosey negotiating a rather narrow stile, I suppose you would call it. And then surveying our way forward. 

They do have a sense of humour round here! 

From there we continued along a beautiful track toward Great Langdale Beck and Colwith Force waterfall. Again, a bit low but worth a look. 

Nearly back to the start. 

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Hardknott Pass & Eskdale

Tuesday we were heading for Eskdale to do some walks which were listed as `reasonable easy`. The obvious route, which looked to be up a very steep road not far from our holiday cottage, was abandoned for a slightly longer route - mistake!

Rosey drove and the first part was narrow but very pretty including a stop we made at an area called Tongue House. The views were stunning and there were bluebells everywhere.

Birk`s Bridge Picnic spot

Moving on we stopped by the river Dudden at a bridge called Birks bridge - a very pretty picnic site as well. In the background was Dunnerdale forest. 

Motorcyclist about to go `over the edge` 

A few mile further on we turned left onto what I thought was a larger road - oh dear!! We were on Hardknott Pass. To quote Wikipedia : 

A single track road highway runs between Eskdale in the west to the edge of the neighbouring Wrynose Pass in the east. On the western side is Harter Fell and the remains of Hardknott Roman Fort (200 metres (660 ft) above sea level). 

The Hardknott Pass stands at a maximum elevation of 393 m (1,289 ft), and descends steeply at a gradient of 30% (1 in 3) into the Duddon Valley. 

The challenging 1 in 3 gradients make the route popular with cyclists. It is part of the annual Fred Whitton Challenge, a 112-mile ride around the Lake District 

The pass is described as one of the most challenging roads in Britain. A series of hairpin bends make visibility difficult in various places. 

……. and Rosey drove right through it - I was well impressed. Frankly it was an amazing experience. The photo does not show it very well at all, but on the right is the road which disappears left, and then you can just see a thin line of the road again, far below.

So we arrived at Eskdale, or more precisely Dalegarth Station for our parking spot and a well earned coffee. (We needed it!) 

The walk we had picked was only two miles but was beautiful and followed the River Esk. The Esk can be spectacular after the rain but unfortunately (depending if you are on holiday) it has been a very dry period. 

On the walk we walked along Anne’s walk, passed Stanley Gill Beck, visited St Catherine's church and admired Hartley Cragg and finished along Parsons Passage (stop smirking) and so back to the start for lunch. 

I don`t think I would have been standing here when the river was flooded to this marker in 1962. The stone marker is on the top of the bridge near the figure in red. 

Every where was yellow with great clouds. 

St Catherine's Church, Boot 

A church has been on the site since the 6th century. Who built the chapel, and when, is unknown. there is, however, a strong tradition linking it with the loss of the white ship in 1120, on St. Catherine's day.

The River Esk is easily crossed at Saint Catherine's and there are old stepping stones still used by those coming to Church and those walking from The King George up to Doctor Bridge - one of the best riverside walks in the area.

The position of this Church is determined by both the presence of the Holy Well and the Stepping Stones - it is very ancient. Fortunately the Victorians did not spoil its simplicity when they rebuilt it - a barn, beside a river, under the mountains where the Christian God has been worshipped by generations of valley people and their visitors.

All the stained glass dates from between 1889 and 1896.

Parsons Passage (the mind boggles) I guess the pathway the parson used to get to the church 

In 1445, the people of Eskdale petitioned the Pope, complaining of the hardships of the journey to St. Bees for baptism, burials and the sacraments. In the 10 mile journey, they said, there were broad waters, mountains and streams which were often in flood. The petition was referred to the Abbot of Calder Abbey to deal with as he thought fit by the Holy See. He was instructed, if the facts were true, to erect, i.e. promote, the chapel to a parish church, with burial ground, font, bell-tower and other parochial insignia, after due compensation for loss of revenue had been paid to the mother church at St. Bees.

We then decided to take a train journey - on a small steam train! This line at Dalegarth railway station is the easterly terminus of the 15" gauge Ravenglass & Eskdale Railway in Cumbria. We went both ways, taking about 40 min each way. There on a diesel engine and returned on a steam. It was brilliant.

The original Ravenglass and Eskdale Railway was a 3 ft (914 mm) line opened on 24 May 1875 to transport hematite iron ore from mines around Boot to the Furness Railway standard gauge line at Ravenglass. In 1915 Wenman Joseph Bassett-Lowke and Robert Proctor-Mitchell, two model makers, converted the line to the 15 in (381 mm) gauge that it is today. The first train operated over the re gauged line on August 28, 1915. By 1917, the entire line had been converted and trains were running along the whole length.

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