Whitby and the famous ruined abbey

Today we planned a trip to Whitby - a place we have not previously visited. Situated on the east coast of Yorkshire at the mouth of the River Esk, Whitby has a maritime, mineral and tourist heritage. Its East Cliff is home to the ruins of Whitby Abbey, where Cædmon, the earliest recognised English poet, lived. The fishing port emerged during the Middle Ages, supporting important herring and whaling fleets, and was where Captain Cook learned seamanship. Tourism started in Whitby during the Georgian period and developed with the arrival of the railway in 1839. Its attraction as a tourist destination is enhanced by the proximity of the high ground of the North York Moors national park and the heritage coastline and by association with the horror novel Dracula.

The earliest record of a permanent settlement is in 656, when as Streanæshealh it was the place where Oswy, the Christian king of Northumbria, founded the first abbey, under the abbess Hilda. The Synod of Whitby was held there in 664. In 867, the monastery was destroyed by Viking raiders. Another monastery was founded in 1078. It was in this period that the town gained its current name, Whitby (from "white settlement" in Old Norse). In the following centuries Whitby functioned as a fishing settlement until, in the 18th century, it developed as a port and centre for shipbuilding and whaling, the trade in locally mined alum, and the manufacture of Whitby jet jewellery. 

Today though I believe its mainstay is tourism. We spent a pleasant few hours wandering the compact town and harbour, and then trudged the 199 steps to the top of the East cliff to see the abbey ruins and St Mary's Church. 

Looking toward St Mary`s Church across the harbour and with the same photo in B&W. The gull was very obliging as he sailed into the side of the image.

A very `touristy` pirate boat sets out to give you a tour of the area.

The small harbour entrance.

Not sure what this monument represented, but possible workmen in the shipbuilding industry? 

So, near the start of the 199 steps ...

Then nearer the top, looking down toward the harbour.

Then to St Mary`s church at the top. The original building was from the Norman period. The nave and transept have 19th-century galleries accessed by internal and external staircases and a three-decker pulpit (Below) which was installed in 1778 and altered in 1847. It retains its 18th-century box pews, some of which are inscribed, "For Strangers Only", and north of the chancel arch is a Jacobean pew. 

What a pulpit and gallery!

Love the Box pews, especially the notice on these ones. 

The Church of Saint Mary is an Anglican parish church and was founded around 1110, although its interior dates chiefly from the late 18th century. The church was designated a Grade I listed building on 23 February 1954 The church graveyard is used as a setting in Bram Stoker's novel, Dracula. However, he was not lurking about when we visited!

Then onto the magnificent Whitby Abbey ruins. In AD 657 Abbess Hild founded a monastery for men and women at Whitby, on land given by King Oswiu. It was Whitby’s first monastic site and became one of the most important religious centres in the Anglo-Saxon world. 

In 664 Whitby hosted a landmark meeting, known as a synod, to decide the date of Easter. By opting to follow the Roman Christian tradition rather than the Celtic one, it was crucial in determining the direction of the English church. The monastery was then abandoned following Danish raids in the 9th century but the Benedictine monk Reinfrid established a new community on the site in 1078. It was suppressed by Henry VIII in 1539 and its ruins are the ones we see on Whitby headland today. The vast shell of the abbey church is a magnificent example of English Gothic architecture.

You can only imagine the splendor of this enormous building when it was at its peak. What most people don't appreciate is that these massive buildings symbolised the collosal wealth of the Church during this period. No wonder Henry wanted some!

A great place to visit and lots of things to see. Well worth a visit.

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Robin Hood's Bay - Journey and arrival

A week in Yorkshire started with our journey to Robin Hood's Bay - our base for the week. I wondered to start with what Robin Hood had to do with the coast of Yorkshire, but as with so much `history` it all appears to be legend. So first a few images taken on a detour on the way up to the coast.

Two images of the mid Yorkshire Moors - wonderful.

Ralph Cross or Ralph’s Cross, depending which documents you read!

The cross stands high-up on Danby High Moor between Hutton-le-Hole and Castleton, just by the junction of two moorland roads to Rosedale and Westerdale, in north Yorkshire. First described in old deeds from the early 13th century, Ralph’s Cross stands nine feet high on a solid stone base. There is uncertainty about its age; the present-day cross could date from the 18th century though some historians date it to around 1200, certainly the base could date from that time. It seems likely that a much older cross once stood on this site — perhaps an Anglo-Saxon one that was actually made of wood. At that time it may have been referred to as ‘The Roda Cross’ (Rude Cross). More than likely the cross acted as a medieval highway marker because it stands at the junction of two moorland roads. Originally there were some letters carved on the cross, one in particular, being the letter “R” for Ralph was carved on the south face. 

Over the centuries the cross has suffered damage and vandalism by being knocked down, particularly in the 1960s and again in 1984 after which it lay in two pieces. However, in 1985 the cross was lovingly restored and re-erected by some local men, Mr Robert Dixon, Mr Tom Rudd and Mr Michael Smith, at the English Heritage Commission’s stone masonry workshop at Mount Grace Priory. The middle section of the cross was made from new stone from nearby quarries; the top section was not badly damaged, but a section of delta metal was inserted inside the shaft to make a secure link between the sections and the cross-head. The cross is a listed monument. 

Our apartment was on the edge of the outer town, so just a short stroll to the bay and beach. So this was to be our base for the week and a great spot we thought we had picked. Just a short downhill stroll to the beach.

A couple of views of the town and harbour from the top of the hill where we were staying.

On the harbour front

Now that's what I call a Yorkshire pudding! Sunday lunch sorted. 

The tide is in, but our first view of the beach at Robin Hoods Bay beach.

The beach is rather stoney but it is a very picturesque. Not to build sand castles on, but peaceful with the town running right down to the beach, as below.

As for the streets themselves? well, narrow and cobbled, and full of character.

One interesting shop window - and they all look homemade.

The above picture shows one of the reputed tunnels used by smugglers. 

The town has a tradition of smuggling, and there is reputed to be a network of subterranean passageways linking the houses. During the late 18th century smuggling was rife on the Yorkshire coast. Vessels from the continent brought contraband which was distributed by contacts on land and the operations were financed by syndicates who made profits without the risks taken by the seamen and the villagers. Tea, gin, rum, brandy and tobacco were among the contraband smuggled into Yorkshire from the Netherlands and France to avoid the duty.

In 1773 two excise cutters, the Mermaid and the Eagle, were outgunned and chased out of the bay by three smuggling vessels, a schooner and two shallops. A pitched battle between smugglers and excise men took place in the dock over 200 casks of brandy and geneva (gin) and 15 bags of tea in 1779.

I think we would stay here again as it was within easy reach of many beautiful places in this part of the world.

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Emma ties the knot

This was the family event of the year - the marriage of Emma and Simon in the little round church of Little Maplestead. It was a good day in all aspects, that is weather included! The whole operation went as smoothly as could be wished.

Emma, with her gorgeous smile which lights everywhere up.

The church was beautifully adorned with flowers befitting the occasion.

Two of the bridesmaids, sisters, looking radiant in their outfits. Nieces of the bride.

Joy, also a sister of the bride.

The bride arrives accompanied by her mother, Marguerite, as her father was sadly deceased.

Little Maplestead Round Church

Simon and Emma, after the service.

Emma showing her beautiful dress.

The happy couple with Emma`s family complete.

The bride's brother Andrew with wife Alison and son Christopher.

The obligatory throwing of the confetee

Before the cake was cut.

Somehow, the photographer had his picture taken with sister Marguerite, Mother of the bride.

Two bridesmaids with mum Joan, sister of the Bride.

Andrew and Alison, brother to the Bride.

Young Christopher, in a contemplative mood.

Mother of the Bride makes her speech.

... and the bridegroom replies.

Emma looks adoringly at her new husband.

Then they cut the cake.

.... before taking to the floor for the first dance

A great day where everything appeared to go as smoothly as possible, and all the well wishes accompanied them as they departed to start their new life. Sadly, like so many marriages, this one did not last for many years and they went their separate ways.

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